Flower Push Pin (Mother-of-Pearl) – TOMOI Co., LTD. in Nara

Sharing stories of Japanese craftsmanship through the people, places, and products behind Cohana. Today, we visit TOMOI in Kawanishi Town, Nara, the maker of the shell buttons used for Cohana's Flower Push Pin. 

The largest production area for shell buttons in Japan 

Shell buttons add a delicate luster and a smooth feel to the supple fabrics used for men's clothing and high-end shirts. Although small, these buttons have long been valued by those who appreciate fashion and seek something special in the details of what they wear. 

Surprisingly, the largest production area for shell buttons in Japan is Kawanishi Town, Nara Prefecture—a town without a sea. We visited TOMOI, which has been preserving and passing on the tradition of this industry since its establishment in 1914.

Kawanishi Town, located in the center of the Nara Basin, is a peaceful town surrounded by rice fields. However, if you take a short stroll around the town, you will find small pieces of shells everywhere, giving you a glimpse of the industry that has shaped the town.

We spotted the company's charming signboard against the blue sky.

Six rivers run through Kawanishi Town, connecting the area with Osaka. The town's location once made it a hub for waterway transport between Osaka and Nara, and this geographical advantage helped the shell button industry develop here. As a predominantly farming community, shell button making seems to have naturally spread as a valuable source of income during the winter agricultural off-season. At its peak in the late 1950s and early 1960s, about 300 out of the 400 households in the town were involved in shell button production.

—So the whole town was like one big shell button factory.

Yes, exactly. But today, the number of households involved in making shell buttons has dropped to about a dozen, as inexpensive polyester buttons have pushed shell buttons out of the market. In today's button market, natural materials account for about 10%, while polyester makes up the remaining 90%. And among those natural materials, shell buttons make up just 5%. 

—Under such circumstances, TOMOI has about a 50% share of the domestic shell button market and is highly regarded by well-known brands. With the rise of inexpensive materials such as polyester and the recent trend toward fast fashion, you must have weathered many challenges over the years. What do you value most in your work?

It's simple. We focus on making high-quality shell buttons. We use the natural color and thickness of each shell, drawing on the knowledge and experience we've built up over the years, and tailor each button to the design our customers are looking for. And the relationships we've built with people in this town are essential to maintaining that quality.

Shell button making is a collaborative process. There are artisans who cut button blanks from the shells, known as "nukiya," and others who adjust their thickness, known as "suriya." And then there's us. Each button is the result of a chain of craftsmanship, passed from one artisan to another, so we place great value on the cooperation and bonds between us.

—Thank you very much. By the way, I heard that you went to Italy to study button making. Compared to Italian buttons, are there any designs that are unique to Japanese shell buttons?

▲He opened a beautiful sample book to explain the designs to us.

I believe this radial, ridged pattern is a design unique to Japan. Because the button cannot simply be rotated and cut in one continuous motion, this design requires considerable time and skill.

By the way, when it comes to button demand in Japan, there is a tendency to prefer buttons with relatively large holes. In Japan, buttons are made with garment production in mind, so there is a preference for buttons that are easy to sew on with a sewing machine. However, in Italy, there is also demand for buttons with smaller holes, which can only be sewn by hand.

In Italy, hand-sewn buttons are seen as something sophisticated and stylish. I really felt that there is a well-established appreciation in Italy for those refined, handcrafted details. 

—I see. By the way, are there trends in buttons, too?

Of course. Things were different during the bubble era, too, weren't they? I think it's important to keep learning from designers and apparel manufacturers and stay up to date with trends. 

Through the interview, we could sense Mr. Tomoi's sincere approach to his work: drawing on the sensibility he gained in Italy, staying in touch with current trends, and continuing to cherish the traditional ties within his local community. 

After the interview, we headed to the factory to see how buttons are made. 

The process of drilling holes. A small drill rotates at high speed, efficiently creating clean holes.

The buttons are shaped with a custom-made cutting die as they are turned on a lathe.

“The cutting die determines the subtle details of the button design, so it is very important. We have installed a machine that allows us to make cutting dies from scratch, enabling us to meet a wide range of needs.”

A sample book of buttons made for various past orders, featuring a wide variety of shapes and sizes, revealed the breadth of TOMOI's skills, knowledge, and experience.

“We process this Akoya shell to make Cohana's shell buttons. We cut the flower shapes out of this shell.” As he explained, he picked up an uncut shell and showed it to us.

▲An Akoya oyster shell with a beautiful pearl-like luster. 

▲When the round shell blanks pass through the machine, flowers bloom in an instant.

“The cutting itself is quick, but there are still more steps to come.” 

In the next room, we saw a large barrel called a “teppo.” We were told that it is used to polish the shells and give them a glossy finish. 

▲A small amount of hot water and a special chemical are added, and the barrel is rotated for about an hour. Adjusting the air and water temperatures can be tricky, and this process also draws on the artisans' experience. 

The next thing we encountered in the process was, surprisingly, rice husks.

“For the final polishing, we use wax and rice husks. When the buttons are put in here and rotated, the wax works like a conditioner, giving them a smooth feel. If you'd like, you can feel the difference for yourself.” 

It is a shame that photos cannot fully convey the difference, but before this process, the buttons felt slightly rough and had a somewhat rugged feel when touched. Afterward, they were so smooth that they seemed to slip right through your fingers when you picked them up.

We were told that the material used in this process varies by production area. Here in Kawanishi Town, a farming community, rice husks are used, which I found particularly interesting.

Finally, we moved into a bright room filled with natural light.

With these pictures it is hard to convey how much shells get smoother than ones before this process. Before this process shell pieces have rough touch, but after this final polishing they are smooth and sleek to the touch.

As for last to see, we went to a brightly lit room.

▲Each shell is visually inspected by hand. The former president's wife, who is also the current president's mother, carefully checks each shell, assessing its condition and sorting them accordingly.

▲Quietly, patiently, and with unwavering focus. Because these shells are natural materials that have developed under different conditions, small scratches and variations in color are only to be expected. But when they are made into products, even these small imperfections cannot be overlooked.

▲Once the buttons have been counted using a special tool, they are ready for shipment. Even this task requires skill and experience.

Inside each small shell button lies a wealth of craftsmanship and the experience of the artisans who make it.

For the joy of their customers, they carefully preserve and pass on their remarkable skills while keeping an eye on current trends.

As we bring the tools that have long been used for handcrafting to people around the world through Cohana, we felt that there is much we can learn from the way TOMOI approaches its work. 

We gently wrapped the Cohana shell buttons they had given us and left the factory.